The Union Government is currently planning collaborations with foreign technical institutes to train Indian artisans and weavers.
Weaving in India
The history of Indian textiles and weavers in India dates back to ancient times. The origins of textiles in India can be traced back to 3000 BC, during the Indus Valley Civilization.
Ancient India
Medieval India
Modern India & European Influence
Indus Valley Civilization (3300 – 1300 BCE):
Evidence of cotton cultivation and textile production has been found in IVC. Also, terracotta figurines of IVC are usually draped in woven garments.
Excavations at site of Mohenjo-Daro (C.2500 to 1500 BCE) revealed presence of dye with woven cotton fragments wrapped round a silver pot.
Vedic Period: Rigveda (1500 – 500 BCE) also contains references to weaving having religious and cultural significance.
A weaver in the Rigveda is described as vasovaya.
The male weaver was called vaya whereas a female weaver was called vayitri.
Post Vedic period: Epics like Mahabharat and Ramayana mention silk fabric and woolen clothing.
Buddhist literature refers to different types of textile fabrics like linen (Khoman), cotton (kappasikam),silk (kosseyam), etc.
Other related words found in the text are weavers (tantuvaya), place of weaving (tantavitatatthanam),weaving appliances (tantabhanda) and loom (tantaka).
The Arthashastra refers to the superintendent of yarns (sutradhyaksa) responsible for regulating yarn spinning.
In later periods, Achaemenid Empire in north-western India introduced Persian motifs and weaving techniques in India.
Mughal Empire (1526- 1857): Mughal emperors as patron of arts help opened Karkhanas or workshops where textile production was carried out.
In that era developement of luxurious textiles like brocades, muslin, Malmal Khas (A muslin worn by Mughals) velvets happened.
In western India, silk was mostly mixed with cotton.
One example of this was alacha fabric which was made in Cambay, Gujarat.
Tarikh-i-Rashidi, a medieval text by Mirza Dughlat Baig mentions practice of sericulture in Kashmir.
Textile Industry grew substantiallyduring medieval period and became largest industry under Mughals with a huge European market.
Emergence of Industrial Revolution in England made it difficult for Indian textiles to compete with the machine made products.
When English clothes entered India, condition of merchants of Indian textiles and weavers in India became worse because British cloth were cheaper.
India lost its rich textile market and became only a supplier of raw cotton for England. This period is represented by drain of wealth from India to England.
Steps taken to Improve Condition of Weavers/Handloom sector
National Handloom Development Programme (NHDP): This scheme by Ministry of Textile is being implemented from financial year 2021-22 to 2025-26.
It follows need-based approach for integrated and holistic development of handlooms and welfare of handloom weavers.
Main Components of scheme are as follows: Cluster Development Programme, Handloom Marketing Assistance, Weavers’ Welfare and Mega Handloom Cluster.
Comprehensive Handloom Cluster Development Scheme (CHCDS): Fordevelopment of Mega Handloom Clusters in clearly identifiable geographical locations covering atleast 15000 handlooms.
Handloom Weavers’ Comprehensive Welfare Scheme (HWCWS): It is providing life, accidental and disability insurance coverage under the components Pradhan Mantri Jivan Jyoti Bima Yojana (PMJJBY), PradhanMantri Suraksha Bima Yojana (PMSBY) and Converged Mahatma Gandhi Bunkar Bima Yojana (MGBY).
Raw Material Supply Scheme (RMSS): This scheme by Ministry of Textile is being implemented throughout country to make available all types of yarn to Handloom weavers.
The Handloom Mark Scheme: to provide assurance to the consumers about authenticity of handloom products.
